Here is finally the DIY of the caning TV cabinet.
The one of my dreams was worth 1,100 € in oak veneer and it was only 120 cm long.
I needed a 160 cm cabinet for the TV corner
So all the measurements I give are to make a piece of furniture 160 cm wide x 40 cm deep x 64 cm high
There are steps that are "easy"
The finish will not be the same but that will not prevent making a nice piece of furniture.
I chose oak to have something robust but if you want to reduce your budget you can quite do it in another species of wood.
In total furniture came to 250 € all inclusive
Here is all the necessary material:
- 1 oak tray 160 cm x 80 cm x 2.2 cm (to be cut in 2 times 160 x 40 cm) Leroy Merlin for the underside and the top of the cabinet
- 1 full plank oak shelf 120 cm x 40 x 2 cm (to be cut in 3 times 40 x 40 cm) Leroy Merlin for the 2 sides and the interior separation
- 2 oak cleats 18 mm x 34 mm x 2m40 Leroy Merlin for the door frames
- 1 medium panel 160 x 40 cm Leroy Merlin for the bottom of the cabinet
- 1 Leroy merlin pine shelf 200 x 40 cm to be cut in 2 times 77 cm x 40 cm (for the interior shelves if you wish). I chose pine for the interior so as not to burden the budget and nothing prevents you from choosing oak
- 2 Leroy Merlin furniture handles
- 4 Leroy Merlin furniture legs 25 cm high
- One Leroy Merlin gold spray paint
- 2 Leroy Merlin door magnets
- 4 Leroy Merlin hinges
- 8 screw-on cleats for Leroy Merlin shelves
- 1m60 of caning in 40 cm wide. mine comes from Atelier des styles (there are different patterns)
Tools :
- Drill
- Screwdriver
- saw
- Miter box (if you want to cut the doors at an angle)
- Square press (if you fix the parts of the doors cut at an angle)
- Wood screws
- Trunnions (and I recommend this centering kit) if you do not want to have visible screws
- Hammer
- Wood glue
We start by bulging the handles and the feet
Bomber delicately and gently
Put several finished coats while respecting the drying times
Preparation of sides and interior separation
For the underside of the cabinet, I didn't waste time with invisible fixings.
I simply fixed my 2 sides of the cabinet and the interior central panel (draw a line at 80 cm and center) with long wood screws
The following steps are only necessary if you do not want any visible screws on the top of the cabinet (otherwise you just have to assemble the pieces simply with wood screws as before)
On the 3 boards of 40 x 40 cm, we draw a central line on the edges and we place 4 points (at 2 cm - 14 cm - 26 cm and 38 cm)
Then we adjust the drill bit according to the size of its journals (be careful to calculate the drilling: approximately 3/4 of the height of the journal)
I did this step for each marked location but only on one side of the boards (the one that will be on the top and for which I have invisible fixings)
On the bottom I put standard screws that can be seen (but it's below eh ;-))
Thread the markers from the centering kit in all the holes.
We put the top plate, checking that everything is straight and with a hammer we tap lightly to mark the locations opposite to be drilled
You will have your drilling marks
We regulate the drilling forest
Then we drill each marked location (12 in total on the underside of the upper plate)
We put wood glue in the holes
We push the journals
Put wood glue in the holes of the top plate and then we fit just like an ikea piece of furniture
You can also add glue on the borders so that everything is well fixed.
And here is a plate fixed without visible screws
On the underside of the cabinet, we fix the 4 feet
Then we fix the medium panel for the bottom of the cabinet
With a hole saw drill the holes for the cables
Inside the cabinet, fix the screw-on brackets at the desired height for your shelves
Then put your shelves
Then cut your cleats at 45 ° if you want to have angled chopsticks
You can simplify this step by simply cutting them straight
You have to cut in the cleats 4 times 80 cm and 4 times 39 cm
On colle
And here I recommend a square press so that it is fixed properly (this one comes from Lidl and is worth 5 € of memory)
I added metal legs on the back to hold the pieces together
Une fois les 2 cadres de portes terminés on agrafe et recoupe le cannage
Then it remains to fix the hinges on the doors (sorry on the photos there was no caning because of confinement and therefore caning not received)
Fix the doors to the cabinet
We screw the handles
Magnets are attached to the inner edge (and the metal part in front) so that the cabinet closes well
